What is a relatively easy trek, doable by first-timers, during summer and winter, and yet allowing one to experience all the different moods and terrain of the great Himalayan range? You got it right! It is the Hampta Pass trek that begins from the lush green Manali valley, climbs up to the very top of the mountain ridges and then descends via the Hampta Pass into a stark, barren cold desert Lahaul region that takes your breath away with the abrupt change of terrain and scenery! From Hampta Pass, the most prominent peaks that are visible are the imposing Mt. Deo Tibba and Mt. Indrasan with its massive glacier, alongwith the numerous peaks of the Pir Panjal and Spiti mountain ranges on the other side. The trek follows the traditional route that was taken to reach Lahaul from Kullu (and vice versa) before the road was built atop Rohtang Pass. It is a truly unforgettable experience and makes you marvel at the sheer enormity of the Himalayan wall that keeps the monsoon at bay on one side, giving rise to the beautiful oak, walnut forests, while just across the ridge it’s a complete rain shadow with barely a tree to be seen till you reach Chhatru where you find a few stunted trees growing because of the Chandra River that feeds them. There are a couple of different trek routes that can be taken; we have chosen the more scenic and less travelled route along the Upper Kullu valley, to ensure a truly fantastic experience.
Day 1: Drive from Delhi to Mandi via Chandigarh (430 Kms, 9 to 10 hrs), Overnight stay in hotel at Mandi
Day 2: Drive from Mandi to Jagatsukh(105 Kms, 2.5 to 3 hrs), Trek from Jagatsukh1950 mtrs to Sauroto3040 mtrs(12 Kms,4 hrs),Overnight Camping
Day 3: Trek from Sauroto to another campsite(Camp-2)2900 mtrs enroute to Chikha3000 mtrs(9 Kms,3.5 hrs), Overnight Camping
Day 4: Trek from Camp-2 to Chikha(12 Kms,4 to 5 hrs), Overnight Camping
Day 5: Trek from Chikha to Balu Ka Ghera3540 mtrs(9 Kms, 3 to 3.5 hrs), Overnight Camping
Day 6: Trek from Balu Ka Ghera to Siagoru3830 mtrs via Hampta Pass4270 mtrs(15 Kms,7 to 8 hrs), Overnight Camping
Day 7: Trek from Siagoru to Chhatru3360 mtrs(9 Kms,3 to 3.5 hrs),Drive from Chhatru to Mandi via Rohtang Pass and Manali(189 Kms,6 to 7 hrs),Overnight stay in hotel at Mandi
Day 8: Drive from Mandi to New Delhi(430 Kms,9 to 10 hrs)
INTERESTING FACTS/INFORMATION ABOUT THE PLACE
Kullu district
Kullu is the prime administrative district in Himachal Pradesh and is also the most populous. The largest valley in the district is the Kullu valley (also known as the Valley of the Gods) where we have the famous hot springs of Bashisht and the popular tourist town of Manali. The northern border of the kullu district is bounded by the Rohtang pass that is one of the most visited tourist destinations in the state. The river Beas is the primary river that flows through the district and most of the big towns such as Manali and Mandi lie along its banks.
Kullu valley/ManaliIt is a broad open valley famous for its sprawling apple orchards and the equally famous pashmina and angora shawls. The airport to access Manali town is located at Bhuntar near Kullu town, about an hour’s travel (by car). The primary religion of people in the valley is Hinduism and there are many famous temples in the valley where people come from far and wide as a pilgrimage.
A Brief HistoryKullu has been a prosperous and fertile valley since recorded history and has found mention in all the epics (Ramayana and Mahabharata) and the Puranas. In the later eras, a number of dynasties laid claim to the land, from the Nandas, to the Mauryas, to the Guptas, Palas and Karkotas. The region was later united by King Harshavardhana, but after his death, it again broke apart into small principalities, which were conquered by the Marathas and the Sikhs, before finally being annexed by the British. However, it remained fairly secluded until the construction of a motorable road only after Indian Independence, which meant that the people have retained their age-old customs and traditions, without being influenced or assimilated.
MythologyAccording to Hindu mythology, Kullu valley is regarded as the cradle of all mankind after the great deluge. The name “Manali” is derived from “Manu-alaya” that means the home of Manu, who is said to be the Hindu version of Noah, the progenitor of humanity. You will find the delightfully wood carved Manu temple a couple of kms above old Manali. Another story from the Mahabharata tells of “Bheem”, the strongest of the Pandavas, killing a demon terrorizing the area, “Hadimb” and then marrying his sister “Hadimba”. Their son, Ghatotkacha was one of the pivotal characters in the great war against the Kauravas, sacrificing his life to make sure Arjuna would be invincible. The Hadimba temple, shrouded in dense pines on a hill above old Manali is a beautiful multi-tiered wooden, pyramidal temple that was built to honour Hadimba devi. Legend also talks about “Arjuna Gupha”, a cave on the flanks of Mt. Deo Tibba, where Arjuna is said to have meditated in order to acquire the most destructive weapon, the Pashupati Astra from Lord Indra.
Other Places of interest
Naggar palace
Naggar palace – Naggar was the capital of Kullu for 1400 years and its 16th century wood and stone castle is exquisite and a must visit while in the area. There is a beautiful weeping willow in its central courtyard with lovely views of the snow capped mountains in the distance. Paintings by the German artist Nicholas Roerich, adorn the walls of the art gallery in the castle. There are also interesting ghost stories that are quite entertaining and worth listening to, especially on chilled, winter nights. Most of the castle is now an exclusive heritage hotel.
Kasol
Kasol – A very popular valley for treks and especially for trout fishing, the Kasol valley is much loved by Indian and foreign tourists.
Jogini Falls
Jogini Falls – About 2 Kms away and further up from Vashisht hot water springs, after trekking through a dense pine forest and a final steep climb, you will come across the Jogini Falls that are not only spectacular on their own, but also offer a spectacular panoramic view of the valley below and the snow cladded mountains in the distance.
Old Manali
Old Manali market – The Old Manali market has a distinct 70s hippie era vibe about it. It is completely laid back, and has quaint shops selling all kinds of brass and silverware, including ornaments, trinkets and musical instruments. A walk along the Old Manali street is quite an experience, with the strains of music wafting out of the river side pubs and the psychedelic stores around.
Manikaran
Manikaran – This town is also on the must visit list of most visitors, not only for its beauty and its hot springs, but also as an important place of pilgrimage for Hindus and Sikhs. As per Hindu legends goes that if one has a bath in the hot springs here, he has no need to go to Kasha for purification. There is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, Lord Ram and a Sikh Gurudwara.
Jagatsukh
The village of Jagatsukh used to be the erstwhile capital of Kullu and is famous for its beautiful 8th century temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Sandhya Gayatri. The annual Chacholi Jatra is a famous festival associated with this town replete with fruit orchards and natural beauty. It is the base for expeditions to Deo Tibba and also to treks that go across the ridge towards the Lahaul side. The Pandav Gufa (cave) lies fairly close to the village and is a popular tourist spot.
The city of Mandi (formerly known as Mandav Nagar) is the third largest in the state of Himachal Pradesh. It is known as the “Varanasi of the Hills” because it is home to 81 temples as compared to 80 temples that are part of the Varanasi diaspora.
A Brief HistoryThe name Mandi, traces its origin back to the ancient times, where it is said that the Rishi Mandav performed such severe penance in the region that the rocks turned black and the town was named in his honour. The town also served as the traditional marketplace and commercial hub for trade between Tibet and the plains and the name could also be derived from the Hindi word for a market (mandi) The present day Mandi district is the result of a merger between the two states of Mandi and Suket (Surendranagar)
Other Places of interestRohtang Pass (13,050 feet) is a high altitude pass above Manali that lies on the Pir Panjal range and connects the Kullu valley with Lahaul and Spiti. Due to its unique location, dividing the lush Kullu valley from the rain shadow desert on the other side, it is prone to dramatic weather changes and blizzards causing travelers to get stranded high up, with many losing their lives. These incidents have led to its forbidding name that translates to a “pile of corpses” in the local language! It is the main highway that connects Himachal to Ladakh and hence it sees a lot of commercial traffic alongwith tourist traffic. This has already led to a considerable effect on the fragile ecosystem and of late the Himachal Pradesh government has limited the number of tourist vehicles allowed upto the pass.
Chandratal Lake (Lake of the Moon)This is a crescent shaped pristine lake that is the origin of the Chandra river, situated at an altitude of 14,100 feet in the high mountains of Spiti in the Lahaul Spiti valley. It is one of the two high altitude wetlands in India and the area around it looks spectacular during spring time with its profusion of beautiful wildflowers. The lake by itself is a trekker’s delight, lying in a bowl, surrounded by high altitude snow covered mountains on all sides. In the mornings it looks like a deep blue sapphire, while during the later afternoons and evenings, it changes colour to a deep, soothing emerald green. Camping is not allowed here to protect the lake, however there are camping grounds 2 kms before the lake along the banks of the Chandra river, right under the feet of the towering CB (Chandra-Bhaga)-14 peaks with its huge hanging glacier. There is a trekking route from here that goes further onto Surya Tal (Sun lake) about 30 Kms away which leads through fantastic rugged terrain and ends up near Baralacha pass on the Leh highway. There is also a route from here (about 5 Kms) that leads to the high altitude Kunzum La Pass.
We will meet up in Delhi and after the perfunctory round of introductions, proceed along the National Highways 1 and 21 passing through Panipat, Kurukshetra, Ambala and Chandigarh before reaching the town of Mandi that lies along the banks of the River Beas where we will be halting for the night.
Day 2: Drive from Mandi to Jagatsukh,Manali (105 Kms, 2.5 to 3 hrs), Trek from Jagatsukh1950 mtrs to Sauroto3040 mtrs (12 Kms,4 hrs),Overnight CampingThe road from Mandi parallels the Beas river, passing the towns of Barnala, Bhuntar and nagger before making the final ascent to Jagatsukh. From Jagatsukh, we will begin our trek, ascending via the trail above the main market that leads through the conifer forests with views of the Upper Kullu Valley and the Hanuman Tibba peak in the distance. After climbing along the trail for about 200 metres, we pass the Boidara village and after approximately 15-20 minutes of further climbing, we come across a small temple, where we can have a quick visit and experience the traditional architecture of the temples in Himachal. The trail continues climbing gradually from here till we reach some Gujjar huts, beyond which we will ascend steeply upto the ridge behind. The trail weaves around the mountain slopes to finally lead us to a fairly extensive Gujjar settlement that is at 3040 meters. This is the village of Sauroto where we will be camping for the night.
Day 3: Trek from Sauroto to another campsite (Camp-2)2900 mtrs enroute to Chikha3000 mtrs (9 Kms,3.5 hrs), Overnight CampingFrom Sauroto we will begin our day by continuing to ascend along the coniferous forest of the Upper Kullu valley, continuing to appreciate the fantastic vista of the snow clad mountains. The trail cuts across a beautiful open meadow, till we come to a short but steep ascent. From atop the ascent here we can see a river flowing down into the Prini village far below, that is part of the usual Hampta pass route. In the post monsoon season, the meadow is carpeted with a variety of beautiful flowers. We will now descend sharply along the undergrowth, followed by a steep ascent yet again through a dense oak forest. Finally we cross through and come to another clearing that is also called “Sauroto” (which literally means a large meadow).We will be camping here for the night.
Day 4: Trek from Camp-2 to Chikha (12 Kms,4 to 5 hrs), Overnight CampingWe leave camp early in the morning, since we might need to cross the Hampta River by wading through it if the wooden bridge is not in place. From camp, the trail will lead us high above the Hampta gorge and the Sythen village that can be seen far below. Follow the grazing trails along here that skirt the Jabri Nullah (2850 metres) which is the halfway point of our trek today. We will continue along the true left bank of the Hampta River for a couple of kms until we come across a wooden bridge to cross over to the other side. If the bridge has collapsed or is missing, we will have to travel further upstream till we come across a point where we will be able to cross the river. After the river crossing, the trail continues to ascend gradually till we finally come to a clearing alongside a stream that branches off the main river with silver birch trees on the periphery. This is our campsite for the day in Chikha.
Day 5: Trek from Chikha to Balu Ka Ghera 3540 mtrs (9 Kms, 3 to 3.5 hrs), Overnight CampingBalu ka Ghera is the base of the Hampta Pass and the trek till there will take between 3 to 3.5 hours. First we will have to cross the stream just above our campsite by hopping across boulders or wading through it. We join the trail beyond it that leads into a narrow canyon like gorge with fantastic weathered rock faces coming down steeply from the high ridges above. We will continue on the steep ascent through it for about an hour, until we finally exit out of it to a point from where the thick wooded slopes of Hampta valley will be visible. The trail now winds through beautiful high altitude meadows that blaze with a rush of color, thanks to the wildflowers and the dainty blue poppy flowers that bloom during and post monsoon (best viewed in July and August). We finally come to the edge of the meadows into a clearing near a stream from where the mighty peaks stare out just beyond the Hampta Pass that we will be climbing tomorrow. This is the campsite of Balu ka Ghera where we will camp overnight. This campsite is also popular with the shepherds who camp here on their way to the high grasslands of Lahaul, early in the summer, waiting for the snow to melt.
Day 6: Trek from Balu Ka Ghera to Siagoru 3830 mtrs via Hampta Pass 4270 mtrs (15 Kms,7 to 8 hrs), Overnight CampingFrom Balu ka Ghera, we will begin ascending in the morning along our left (the true right of the valley) through boulders defined by rock cairns. After about an hour, we come across a broad plain interspersed green patches, from where, on a clear day, the views are fantastic, extending all the way to Hanuman Tibba. We will cross the stream that flows through the plain and reach a meadow that marks the base of Hampta Pass. The pass is usually covered perennially in snow and the ascent up to the narrow ridge along a gully will be tough and could be slippery. After a bit of careful effort, we finally reach the top of Hampta Pass and the reward of the effort lies all around you. A fantastic panorama ranging from Mt. Indrasan to Mt. Deo Tibba to the many peaks of the Lahaul and the Mulkilla range awaits you here. It is awe-inspiring to see the huge mass of hanging glaciers that crown a number of peaks and are clearly visible from our vantage point. After feasting on this incredible sight for a while, we will have to begin our descent to Siagoru along the barren slopes that greet us on the Lahaul side. Initially the descent is extremely steep and owing to the packed snow, it can be quite treacherous. Please proceed carefully through the snow field till the descent eases out to a gentle slope. It will ease out after about a kilometer and will take us down via a number of switchbacks, to the meadow of Siagoru which will be our camp for the night, facing the moonlike barren mountain slopes. Siagoru literally means “a cold place” and this becomes very obvious as the evening wears on, bringing with it stinging cold winds whistling through the narrow pass. It is advised to keep yourself warm and make sure you are well covered to prevent getting chilled to the bone!
Day 7: Trek from Siagoru to Chhatru 3360 mtrs (9 Kms,3 to 3.5 hrs), Drive from Chhatru to Mandi via Rohtang Pass and Manali(189 kms,6 to 7 hrs),Overnight stay in hotel at MandiOur final day of trekking will begin with a stream crossing through chilled glacial water. (This stream comes down all the way from the Indrasan glacier and as all glacial streams do, widens as it gets warmer) We will continue along the true right of the valley, carefully through the slippery scree and boulder strewn trail until we come to a grassy outcropping from where we can get clear views of the road leading up to the Chandra valley to Batal and Kunzum La. From here on, there is another steep descent which leads to a bridge over the Indrasan river and leading onwards for about 10 minutes along the true left bank of the Chandra river which is the fastest flowing and turbulent rivers of the region making it extremely dangerous. A short while of walking along the bank finally brings us to Chhatru where we are greeted by the sight of a number of small dhabas where we can finally stop and relax. This is where our trek ends, so enjoy the spectacular peaks of the Lahaul range and the onrushing Chandra river, before getting into our vehicle for the long drive up to the Rohtang pass and from there on down to Mandi via Manali. A few trekkers opt for an additional day from Chhatru, driving upto the beautiful Chandratal lake nestled high up in the mountains in the direction of Batal/Kunzumla. Please inform in advance if you would like to do it; we will arrange the trip for you accordingly.
Day 8: Drive from Mandi to New Delhi (430 Kms,9 to 10 hrs)From Mandi, the drive to Delhi is via Chandigarh and is largely along fairly decent roads except for the sections just after Mandi where the brittle rockfaces cause landslides during the monsoon season. It will take us about 9-10 hours to finally reach Delhi, bringing our memorable trip to a close.